![]() ![]() May I suggest you check all possibilities before you take that 670 off and replace it with a new one? We wouldn't want you to spend time and money installing a new carburetor just to have the same symptoms.įirst check you induction for any vacuum leaks, leaks will lead you to make carburetor adjustment to offset the the effects of the leak and in turn give you poor off idle throttle response and incorrect vacuum advance. There are many reasons for bog on acceleration, not all carb related. If after all your testing you feel you need a smaller carb there's a Holley 570 Street Avenger as well as a 500 or 600 Edelbrock Performance Series. The Edelbrock and Rochester carburetors are nice as well. That Holley dual inlet vacuum secondary is a nice carburetor, you should be able to tune it to your car. If you are over carbed with a Holley 670 you will be over carbed with a 750 or 800 CFM Rochester. All those carburetor selection charts will tell you the max cfm you need for a particular rpm not necessarily what you will use. has been done to or in the engine today?įirst you have to know what you have and what your intended usage will be before you can really choose a carb. Do you really know what camshaft, pistons, bore, head/block machining etc. It's 49 years old, chances are it may have been rebuilt in that time. It's a 67, does it still have all the pollution control stuff attached? Was the car running well before you replaced the carburetor? You put that carburetor on 15 years ago, did it bog off idle ever since? Well I can't help but throw my two cents in. Sometimes the engine will die if it stays in that period for too long. I am not moving my foot off the gas or flooring it. When I come from a dead stop and steadily accelerate on the pedal, you'll notice a pause where the engine "cuts out". Could be that it needs to be rebuilt from sitting (it sat for some years) but the rebuild shop quoted me as much as it would cost to buy a new carb so I opted to get something better suited instead of rebuilding it.Īs for seeing how my car runs, I posted a quick video showing what I mean about acceleration hesitation. If you look at my previous posts some said that my 670 holley street avenger may be too much carb and bogging down the engine. ![]() ![]() The consensus seems to be that I should be looking for a carb with about 600 CFM but how does one calculate that? How can you find max RPM without a tach? I probably just go with a quadrajet and spend the amazon gift card on something else. Might require some riggin, to hook up the throttle cable. They also have Jet brand front inlet Q's, though they don't look to have Pontiac type throttle linkage. There is even a Chevy truck carb that had a front inlet.Īlso, if you don't mind plumbing for a side inlet, they offer a lot of Side inlet models, including the Jet brand, which have a fairly good rep. If you don't mind rigging up the throttle linkage and running the return spring to the front, you can use a Buick or Olds carb. But the Amazon store card can be used, including interest free, for 6 months. ![]() Don't know if your Amazon card can be used to buy from Amazon sellers or not. I can't vouch for the quality of any of 'em. Perhaps a better candidate for underrated muscle car might be Buick’s GSX 455 Stage 1, a sheet metal asteroid which laid down a stunning 13.Actually, a lot of Amazon sellers offer rebuilt Q-jets. It used the right body and chassis, but it would have lost a stoplight drag race to virtually anything else of note, including absolute yachts from Pontiac’s own lineup like the Bonneville and Catalina. So is the Sprint even a muscle car? Buyers didn’t seem to think so. Those numbers barely compete with the faux “muscle cars” from the mid-’70s. It completed the quarter-mile in 17.5 seconds. As stated before, even with all of the modifications to the engine the Sprint only cranked out 215 horsepower. The brutal truth, however, is that the Sprint could not perform on the usual muscle car metrics. ![]()
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